29 March 2011 - Disembarquation

We are leaving our lovely ship today. On leaving the ship, another first. A row of officers lined up, including the Captain, to wish everyone a safe journey (I even got a kiss from one of the young officers, so much for not spreading disease by shaking hands)! I'm not complaining however! Took a taxi to the Regal Hotel which is a linked by a walkway to the airport terminal, our flight is not till 11.15pm. The hotel is very large with 1200 bedrooms and half a dozen restaurants. We sat by the pool during the morning and then had fish and chips (you can take the girl out of England but can't take England out of the girl)! After a bubble bath and back, neck, shoulder and head massage we are ready for the flight home.

28 March 2011 - Hong Kong

We are back in Hong Kong, having docked at the prime position in Kowloon overlooking Hong Kong Island. This morning we went to Hong Kong Museum of Art which is a fantastic modern building right on the waterfront. Finally the sun is out and it's pleasantly warm, so we took the Star Ferry over to Hong Kong Island, travelled in style on the top deck which cost us a whole 40p extra! It's 13 years since we have been on Hong Kong Island and the amount of change is simply staggering, not only the office buildings but also mall upon mall, each one full of expensive designer shops, there is little cheap to buy these days. It does make you appreciate the amount of wealth that there must be in Hong Kong to support so many retail outlets. As the sun was shining we decided to take what was only our second opportunity to sit by the ships pool on our return. .After an early dinner, we went back to our cabin and had front row seats on our balcony for the laser show. A fitting end to our trip.

Some last thoughts about China

Now we are safely in international waters, it's worth saying how paranoid the chinese seem to be over some things. Whilst docked in Tianjin the port security services, firemen, coastgards, policemen, army and paramedics held a parade on the dockside and sent guards onto the ship to make sure nobody took any photographs!

March 26 2011 Jeju Island, South Korea

The seas were particularly rough last night due to the high winds, we had very little sleep and the spicy noodles came back to haunt me! Arrived on Jeju Island at noon with the weather bitterly cold and windy, we really needed our woolies today. Jeju Island is known as the major holiday and honeymoon centre of South Korea and is home to the highest mountain in Korea, an extinct volcano. However, due to it being 60 miles offshore it developed its own culture including its women of the sea who would free-dive up to 70 foot to collect seafood (as featured in James Bond). We took a bus to the new town to see the shops, more matching underwear.

From there we took a taxi to the old town and wandered its arcades, looked at the fishing fleet and walked along the river. Walked all the way back to the ship, probably the only ones to have done so. Not a great deal going on on Jeju. On return to the ship the Captain told us to expect a very bumpy ride throughout the evening and to secure all loose items in the cabin, thankfully it wasn't that bad. However we do still have to navigate the straits of Taiwan before we get to Hong Kong.

March 24th Incheon, South Korea

A dry and sunny day today but cold. We arrived in Incheon at 7am and docked within sight of the town. Our first destination was the Jayu Park because the shops didn't open until 10.30am. The park holds a memorial to 100 years of the American/Korean Treaty, a spectacular modern memorial and a statue of General Douglas Macarthur (son of Arthur Macarthur, who says Americans don't have a sense of humour)! Incheon is the site of the 1950 landings by the UN forces during the Korean War, which enabled the south to turn the conflict their way. The DMZ is only an hour north of Incheon. In the park there was an outdoor exercise area with most of the sorts of equipment you would find in a gym and people actively using them. We met a Korean gentleman who, after enquiring where we came from, proceeded to tell us that the sun never used to set on the British Empire and then proceeded to sing the National Anthem to us while doing shoulder presses! Korea is certainly a more friendly place than some of the Chinese places we have visited, with the exception of Shanghai. After this we walked through Chinatown and looked at a few old buildings, however the most notable thing architecturally about Incheon is the variety of christian churches, some old and some modern, ranging from the Catholic Cathedral to the Anglican Church and including the largest Methodist church, hall and centre we have ever seen. Having walked the streets, we then went underground and walked through the markets which are underneath the streets and stretch for a couple of kms. From some of the stalls we saw it seems that in Korea at least, the seasons fashion statement is matching underwear for men and women! Rush out now to get yours to be ahead of the game! Finally we risked a Korean restuarant on Korean Restaurant St and had dumplings and (very hot) noodles, I was up all night!. To get in and out of Incheon Harbour, the ship has to pass through a sea lock which itself was quite interesting but made more so for us as it was done while snow was falling. This was the first precipitation we have had during the whole trip and it comes down as snow? The snow came down hard enough to lay across the decks of the ship and was the source of great entertainment for many of the Australians and members of the crew, who had never experienced snow before. Looking forward to arriving at Jeju Island tomorrow.

Monday 21st March 2011 - Tianjin, China

Today we are in the port of Tianjin which is an hour and half drive from the centre. Tianjin is a city of 12 million people, the third largest in China and the port is built on reclaimed marshland, which extends some 40km towards the town itself and is either being or waiting to be redeveloped. It's like watching the industrial revolution in real time. John took an excursion to Tianjin centre - it was closed! Or at least most of the sights he was supposed to see were. It was Monday and state owned monuments and museums are closed for the day. The excursion provider had failed to inform the ship of this minor fact. He managed to see one Buddhist monastery, the ugliest church ever built and a bizarre house called the pottery house, decorated Gaudi like with over 4 million pots & ceramics. All these divided by a traditional chinese lunch. Then an hour and half drive back to the ship, not a great day for him but I did have the champagne on ice when he returned. While John was away I went to the gym, the thalassotherapy pool and generally spoilt myself aboard ship.

Saturday 19th March 2011 - Quingdao China

Today I realised that it's actually not 2010 but 2011 and we visited Quingdao! From 1893 to 1914 Quingdao was administered by the Germans and this makes for some interesting architectural sights with many of the streets being more like Europe than the Far East. Most of the colonial mansions however are very run down and look as though they are used for appartments. They say its nickname is 'the Switzerland of the Orient' but the Swiss need not worry! Once again we walked for miles, rather strangely this seaside resort which has 3 beaches, No 1, No2 and No 3 (that's Chinese inventiveness for you) has a European style pier which extends about 500 metres into the sea and has a Chinese pavillion at the end (but no saucy postcards)! We walked the length of the pier and then the length of the promenade, probably 3 km long. On the way we called in to see the Tian Hou Temple which was originally built in 1467 and also saw the outside of the Catholic Cathedral which sadly looks as though it's unused . Quingdao's main claim to fame these days is that it is home to the Tsingtao Brewery which was established by the Germans in 1903. Try as we may, we couldn't find it, the things you will do to get a free beer! In the middle of Quingdao there were many barbers practising their skills on the pavement, this annoyed John as the day before he had paid 30$ for a No 3 all over on board ship and he felt he could probably have had the same thing done for a fraction of the price on the street! We also trecked up the hill (seeking the brewery) and found the old observatory which at least gave us some scenic views all round the city, however no brewery. Whilst staggering back to the shuttle bus we did come across a fascinating street of food stalls and restaurants, mainly seafood which was cooked fresh while you waited, including sea urchins, sea slugs and whole squids on skewers, however the most interesting and disturbing stall had deep fried scorpions, grasshoppers, locusts, meal worms, seahorses and chrysalis. We didn't try them. Dylan & Harry would have loved it! Life at sea continues and the new Captain seems very good as the seas have remained calm since he boarded. John won the 1960's music trivia quiz last night, there's a surprise!

Wednesday 16th March 2010 - Shanghai

Sailed up the Yangtze and into Sanghai, China's largest city with a population of 20 million, at 8am. The Yangtze is so wide you can't see the other bank and at any one time there are at least 30 other ships in view. We had to dock at Baoshan which is 30 miles from the centre of Shanghai, we were told that the journey into the centre would take an hour and half, luckily they were wrong and it only took 40 minutes. We were deposited on the Bund which runs alongside the Yangtze and is lined by all the great buidings from colonial times. We walked the length of the Bund, about 2km and were able to see on the other bank the modern skyline with its stunning skyscrapers. After this we visited the old city and in particular the Yuyuan Garden which was finished in 1577 and is very tranquil and although covering only 2 acres, feels much larger as it is designed to create different vistas at every turn. We were invited to try various teas which promised to cure all ills from obesity to wrinkles and piles, we didn't buy any! After this, feeling peckish we braved a local restaurant and ordered steamed pork dumplings which were delicious even though Carol tried to swallow one whole and burnt her mouth! After lunch we went to the City Temple of Shanghai which is very much a working temple dedicated to the City God. After visiting Marks & Spencer to buy some extra knickers, well who else would you trust? we walked back along the Bund and took tea in the Peace Hotel, a fabulous art deco hotel. Our final walk of the day was along the Nan Jing Road which is 4km of 600 shops, this led us to the Shanghai Centre where we were to spend the evening. We had tickets to see the Shanghai Acrobats at the Shanghai Theatre which was amazing and better entertainment than Cirque de Soleille. After this we returned tired but happy, indeed we must have walked at least 5 miles.
Thursday 17th March 2010 - Shanghai - Mass exodus except for the lucky few remaining on board for the next leg.
Having done so much yesterday we spent a lazy day enjoying the first real sun we've had this trip. On this next leg of the trip, we will be very much in the minority as there are only going to be 29 brits on board. We are sad to be saying goodbye to our Captain Carl from the Isle of Mann, the best Captain we have ever had and who kept us so well informed during the crisis in Japan. We now have Captain Carlsson about whom the jury is still out.

Monday 14 March - Busan, South Korea

Last night the ship docked in Busan around 7pm and a troupe of traditional dancers and singers came aboard which was very interesting and entertaining. This morning we took a bus into the city calling at the Yongdusan Park on the way. This is a beautiful oasis in the middle of a huge bustling city. We went to the observation platform at the top of the Busan Tower some 387 feet high which afforded an amazing view of the city. Our next stop was the Jagaichi Fish Market, one of the largest and busiest in all of Asia, located on the harbour front. Oh the sights we saw including two fishwives having a blazing row! We have never seen so many varieties of seafood in one place before. I regreted wearing open toed sandals and came back with fishy smelling feet! Next we went to the Gukje Market which has over 1,400 small shops selling all types of counterfeit goods as well as street food. We resisted the temptation to buy anything. We then discovered a huge department store called Lotte, so huge that on the 11th floor (the roof) it had a park and viewing platforms over the city. The weather today has been superb, far from the freezing temperatures we had been expecting.

A few words about Japanese toilets!

We can't leave the area without discussing lavatorial matters. Apparently, Japanese ladies live in horror of being heard answering calls of nature. Accordingly the toilets come equipped with a range of buttons, one of which either plays music or makes the sound of a flush to hide any tinkling or other sounds! After the event other buttons direct warm water to appropriate portions of the anatomy and yet another provides provides a blast of stimulating air. All of this done whilst sitting upon a heated seat! Should you be encumbered by a small person when nature calls, some cubicles come complete with a wall mounted baby container in which to safely hang the child! I will be placing an order for one of the aforementioned toilets on my return!

Saturday 12 March - At sea

Awoke to the news that we won't be going to Osaka after all and while disappointing, this is understandable given the situation and our hearts go out to the people who have suffered in this tragedy. The Capt tried to get us back to Nagasaki as we still had to have our passports stamped as leaving Japan, however due to the state of emergency, they have closed the port. The situation as it stands now is that we will be calling at Fukuoka so that we can be checked out of Japan. The Capt has just told us that he has arranged for us to spend a bit more time in Busan, S Korea and is trying to sort out some other changes to the itinerary as well.

Friday 11 March -Nagasaki Japan

Ship docked at 8am and we spent the morning visiting Glover Gardens which has a collection of Western Style homes built by influential foreigners that lived and worked in Nagasaki in the 19th Century. We also looked at the Oura Catholic Cathedral completed in 1865 which is the oldest surviving christian church in Japan. From here we took a taxi to the Nagasaki Peace Memorial Park and visited the Hall of Remembrance which was quite stark but very moving. We then went to the Atomic Bomb Museum which graphically illustrates the trajedy and horror of the nuclear bomb, quite harrowing but it had to be done. The bomb exploded 500 metres from the largest catholic cathedral in Asia and all but one wall was destroyed in the initial seconds. The rebuilt cathedral is very simple in it's beauty. Our final port of call here was to the memorial at the actual point of impact which again really made us think. Armed with our trusty streetcar map and feeling quite brave, we took the streetcar back part of the way and then walked the rest of the way back to the ship, calling on the way for some tasty free samples of food and drink. We tried the sake and cheap Japanese whisky, we won't be bringing samples home! We also tried some of the famous Nagasaki Castella cake believed to have been introduced by the Portuguese in the 1500's (madiera cake to you)! Arrived back on board tired but happy and looking forward to a relaxing evening. At 5.30pm the grim voice of Captain Carl announced the earthquake and massive tsunami and told us not to worry but he was going to make a run for deep water! We weren't worried until he asked all crew on deck 3 to return immediately to their quarters and seal their portholes! More tomorrow if we're saved.

Thursday 10 March - Kagoshima Japan

Known for its mild climate and friendly people, Kagoshima is visually and physically dominated by the majestic and active volcano, Mt Sakurajima, towering over 3,500 feet above the city and bay. In 1847 the british sent 6 warships to Kagoshima and bombarded the port after the local ruler refused to pay compensation for the death of an englishman, what a glorious colonial history we have! We docked at 7am, the weather was cold, dry and sunny, ideal for sightseeing. We took the shuttle bus into the Tenmonken district which is one of southern Kyushu's most bustling shopping and dining districts and our first stop was the Yamakataya Department Store, which is a lot like Harrods. The shop assistants were very polite, bowing whenever they saw us, very strange, however everyone was extremely helpful, the greeter at the front door even going so far as to escort us down the street and show us the right road to take to the park. The store also had a superb food hall in the basement which provided a good selection of free tastings of local specialities. Next we walked through the Shiroyamo Park to a scenic observation point 350 foot above the town so that we could get a good view of the volcano. While it hasn't had a major eruption since 1914 the volcano does have a minor eruption every 45 minutes. Whilst at the top we met two charming Japanese girls who had spent time in England and who insisted on sharing their hot baked sweet potatoes with us! Finally we visited the Prefectual Museum which features local plant life, cultural artifacts and local wildlife before returning to the ship. Looking forward to visiting at Nagasaki tomorrow.

Wednesday 9 March - Life on the ocean wave

The weather today has been a real bonus, the sun was out and it was warm enough to sit on the balcony. Our ship is about 30,000 tons and registered in Valletta, the cruise is proving to be really good value as not only is the wine included, but also soft drinks, teas & coffees, pre dinner horses d'ouvres (at least that's what we thought and that's why we won't eat them.......not really)! The big news of the day is that the captain in his midday announcement, following his previous items of good news, calmly announced 'oh by the way there has been a 7.2 earthquake in Japan and a tsunami warning!' Alright the tsunami was only going to be half a metre in height but nevertheless.........

Tuesday 8 March - At sea

The Captain lied!
Not only did we have 30mph winds but we had to pass through the Straits of Taiwan, which funnels the prevailing seas. The underlying swells were running at 7 metres but every now and then (more now than then) the funnelled waves would piggy- back on the swells and these reached 40 foot! The Captain said it was like being 'smacked in the face', the boat creaked, groaned and banged all night, not much sleep was had by anyone till 3.30am, which was 4.30am really because clocks had advanced 1 hour. We forgot about the hour change and presented ourselves at brunch at 12.15pm instead of what we thought was 1.15am, we thought it was a bit strange when we were offered wine! Did very little today, had another nice nap in the afternoon!

Monday 7 March Xiamen

Arrived at Xiamen, known in the West as Amoy, at 10am and had to go through full Chinese immigration including body temperature check, (John said lucky there aren't too many hot women on this cruise)! Xiamen is known as one of China's most liveable cities because it mixes colonial era buildings with modern. A 15 minute bus ride took us downtown where we spent the morning looking at shops. The city is best known as a centre for tea production and this can be seen sorted by hand in shop doorways. It also has many tea houses and we visited one which offered 'in english' afternoon tea, however due to their lack of english, we ended up with Cappucino's! Our plan for the afternoon was to take the short 5 minute ferry to Gulangyu Island. After 10 minutes on the ferry we realised that we were on the wrong one! Somehow we had joined a Chinese sightseeing tour which circumnavigated the island, 40 mins later we finally arrived. Gulangyu is a 'must see' island and contains many colonial mansions which housed the Consulates of 13 nations durng the late 19th Century. We managed to catch the right ferry home. It's been dry but a little chilly today especially noticeable during the 40 minute open air ferry crossing! The day finished with the announcement that we could expect 35 mph winds but as we had had 50 mph winds the night before there was no problem.

Sunday 6 March Azamara Quest

Before the ship sailed at 2pm we went shopping in the port mall. The ship sailed at 2pm and we had a rare glimpse of the sun, Hong Kong was obviously glad to see the back of us. The highlight of the captains leaving party was a tray of weak champagne cocktails being spilt over a fellow lady passenger. John said he was surprised the liquid had the strength to travel that far! The weather has now returned to grey. Looking forward to arriving at our first port Xiamen tomorrow.

Friday/Saturday 4/5 March Hong Kong

We were expecting great things from the hotel and were not disappointed, it's truly opulant and the service is impeccable. There is even a maid in the ladies and gents toilet who escorts you to a loo, waits for you and then shows you to a sink, hands you a towel, before seeing you safely out - nothing is too much trouble! We had a short walk round the town, had complimentary cocktails in the basement bar then watched the laser show from our room which looks out onto the harbour. We decided to eat in the Swiss restaurant which had an interesting menu, it was excellent. We rounded off our first evening with drinks at Felix on the 28th floor with magnificent views, got talking to some German students who asked to join us. After a great nights sleep and breakfast, we walked around the town,taking in the National Heritage Centre, Chinese Park, Avenue of Stars, walked the length of Nathan st and had a look at Temple St Market and the Pak Tai Buddhist Temple. The weather was mild and a bit breezy, excellent for sightseeing. Joined the Azamara Quest at 4pm & attended the usual lifeboat drill at 5pm. The ship is quite small with only 670 passengers but it's very nice and so is our cabin. A steward brought us some tea and for some unfathomable reason felt obliged to tell us how choppy the seas in Japan are! I asked him if this was always the case. 'Oh yes' he said smiling, which being a bad sailor was not music to my ears! Dinner was very good and we dined with 2 other English couples before exploring the ship which didn't take too long as it's not very big and we turned in for the night.

Hong Kong - Penninsular Hotel

After a long but uneventful flight we arrived safely in Hong Kong.  We both managed several hours of sleep, a first for me so we felt relatively refreshed.  We were met off the plane by a personable man in red uniform  who escorted us through immigration and baggage control.  He introduced us to another besuited gentleman who took us through to the Limousine Lounge where a Rolls Royce Phantom was waiting for us complete with driver.  This was a complete surprise for me and we enjoyed the 40 minute drive from the airport, restraining ourselves from pressing all the buttons!  John wanted to say `You`r fired`!  We were met at the door of the Penninsular by Mandy who showed us to our room which had been upgraded to a harbour view so a good start to things.  Tonight we are going to watch the laser show over the harbour have our free cocktail in the Salon de Ning and get something to eat.  

We're off tomorrow!

Pre journey test. The good news, it's 23 degrees in Hong Kong, the bad news is that it's only 3 degrees in Seoul!