Delhi to Shimla 19th January 2013

Arose at 5am and were taken to Delhi station, total chaos!!  Thousands of people, some sleeping on the platform, others cooking their breakfast and the rest seemingly milling about while coolies wove their way between them with luggage on their heads.   In addition there were dogs scavenging between the railtracks which would be enough to paralyse the rail network in the UK, whilst outside there were ox carts, rickshaws, all vying with trucks, taxis, delivery vans etc for space, it was a real spectacle. 

We boarded the Shatabati Express carrying our large breakfast boxes emblazoned with the Taj Palace Hotel’s logo, no conspicuous show of wealth there then, and took our seats for the 4.5 hour journey to Kalka.  Unfortunately for half the journey there was thick mist so besides regular glimpses of slums, there was not much to see.  No sooner had we started our journey, than the tea wallahs came round with tea & coffee, red Bakelite cups and matching thermos flasks of hot water served with Marie biscuits.  They then served the complimentary breakfast which we had been advised to avoid, but which looked & smelt far more appetizing than the contents of our breakfast boxes!

The mist finally cleared and we were able to watch the North Indian farmland and villages pass by with sadly more slums.  The wealth gap was really brought home to us even as we started our travels through India.  Unfortunately the train was 1.5 hours late arriving in Kalka but luckily? the Toy Train had waited for us.  Picked up another big box containing our packed lunch which not only was less inspiring than the breakfast but was so large, it would hardly fit into the available storage spaces on the Toy Train.  How to describe the Toy Train?  Well it is small, VERY small and incredibly uncomfortable, the bench seats are plastic covered and barely big enough for 2 little uns with upright backs so you can never get comfortable.  The windows which were open for most of the journey until it got too cold, did not actually close properly and therefore did not keep out the cold.   But at least the journey was only 5.5 hours long!!  This was counteracted however by stunning scenery as we travelled up into the mid Himalayas to Shimla.  

We arrived in Shimla after dark where the night before, depending on which report you read, they had had between 5” and 5’ of snow.  Looking at some of the cars, it was about a foot.  Fortunately the Oberoi Cecil Hotel was close to the station and we were greeted with cups of hot chocolate and hot towels, Carol felt very emotional, so did John when he found out that the beer was only £4 a pint!  Beautiful hotel, lovely room but sadly the heating was on the blink so the room never got above 17 degrees all night.  It had been quite a day!  

We are hoping to post some pictures however having problems attaching them to the blog for some reason, will keep trying.

Delhi 18th January 2013

We awoke to find Delhi hit with a major thunderstorm and very heavy rain.  John had curry for breakfast and now feels like a proper student.  After checking out, we were met by a driver and a representative of Great Rail Journey’s agent in Delhi who accompanied us on our transfer to the Taj Palace.  The journey was undertaken through some of the heaviest rains we have ever seen which made the weaving traffic even more exciting.  The poverty that exists is clearly visible from the main roads, with tent encampments along the verges.  While the rain seemed to have deterred the cyclists, it certainly didn’t deter the tuk-tuk drivers who were still able to judge gaps in the traffic down to the last millimetre.

We had been impressed by the Sheraton Hotel but the Taj Palace is something else altogether, John is dismayed to find that a beer will cost him £8.00!   He has the shakes already!  Thank God for Happy Hour!  Our room is stunning with views across wooded parkland; the bathroom is slightly disconcerting being a glass box, it would satisfy many fetishes, although thankfully we discovered the electrically controlled blinds!   Security at all the hotels is very thorough, all cars approaching are searched, bonnets lifted and all luggage goes through airport style screening.  Many of the larger shops expect you to show your receipt for any purchases before leaving, (just like Costco).

Our meal this evening, part of our package, was a Vietnamese tasting menu comprising of about 6 small dishes served in compartments in a wooden box.  Unfortunately they didn’t tell us what they were, however they were fantastic.  And so to bed ready for an early start tomorrow.  

Delhi 17th January 2013

We went to Dakshin last night, a restaurant serving classical food from Southern India.  We had some wonderful food which included some complimentary tastings.  We particularly enjoyed the banana dosas and the paalkatti pattani masala which is cottage cheese and green peas cooked in spices, coconut, poppy seeds and aniseed.  Particularly noteworthy was the Elaneer Payasam for dessert which was like a sweet coconut soup, it was delicious.

Another difficult night as our body clocks have not adjusted so we didn't get to sleep until after 2am.  This meant that we again slept in till 11am!  We decided that the best cure for this was some retail therapy and so we went across the road to the shopping centre.  After breakfast in Costa Coffee, we went to M&S (well you have to don't you)!  M&S however proved not to be such a good idea as their credit card machine managed to block John's credit card.  Santander, helpful as usual suggested that the only way to unblock it was to return to the UK!  Who says banks aren't helpful!  Luckily other credit cards are available.

After lunch we took a taxi to Qutub Minar, a murghal 11th century historical site and burial place with a fantastic tower and extensive ruins.  The journey there and back by taxi was interesting and took in the sights and sounds of everyday indian life.  The traffic here is quite horrendous and progress is made by the driver leaning on the horn and diving into any space he sees, whether it gets him nearer to the front or not.  It all seems like a game.  The air pollution is very bad and you can taste it.  Airplanes taking off from the nearby airport simply appear as ghostly shapes.

We're hoping for a better nights sleep tonight and an easy transfer to the Taj Palace Hotel tomorrow.






   

     

Delhi 16th January 2013

After an uneventful flight, we arrived at the Sheraton in New Delhi at 3am, which meant that we slept through until midday.  Had a good journey in from the airport despite huge numbers of trucks on the road, however this is because trucks are only allowed into the city between 9pm and 6am.  Chilled out in the afternoon by the pool accompanied by the continual honking of horns from the traffic passing the hotel.  I sent John out to discover what the shopping mall Select City next door was like, apparently one of the best in Delhi.  He came back with stories of restrooms, beer cafes and a Hard Rock, not to mention Happy Hour!     

7th October New York

7^th October

All Meted out

Today was a little cold and grey and so we intended to spend some of the day in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  If you thought the British Museum was large think twice the size.  The collections are out of this world, from period room settings, actually taken from the houses where they were in situ, to the best collection of European art we have ever seen.  The fruits of capitalism used to plunder European heritage!

In one room there are half a dozen Van Goughs followed by two rooms containing over 30 Monets,  by the end of it we were suffering almost a sensory overload and that is before we got to the Warhol  exhibition.  Many of his classic works compared and contrasted with the works of other artists including two pieces by our own Gilbert and George.  Then as you exit that exhibition you are faced with a pair of amazing Pollocks and so on!

By know we were getting exhausted but not only was it physically difficult to find the way out but it was also emotionally difficult as ever time you turned a corner there was yet another masterpiece which you had to ignore if you wanted to escape.  We eventually left at 3.30pm, tired but happy.  Or at least John was!  Carol had worn small heels so wasn’t so happy!  Sore feet not happy feet!

Then back to the hotel for tea and a rest before going out for the evening with Marion and Ian, friends from Australian who, by yet another coincidence are in New York at the same time as us.  We met in Greenwich Village and had a fabulous meal followed by 2 whiskeys at the Jekyl & Hyde bar.

 

 

Metropolitan Museum images 

 

27th October San Francisco –Free day

27^th October San Francisco –Free day

 

We took the cable car to the shops at Union Square and spent the day shopping, bargain cashmere & golf shoes for John.  We stopped for lunch at a seemingly unpretentious sandwich shop, Mocca on Maiden Lane, which turned out to be a bit of a city icon and charged accordingly.  $42 for 1 sandwich, 1 salad and 2 ordinary glasses of wine!  However the shock was mitigated by 2 young girls performing folk music, with fiddle and steel ukulele.  

In the evening we went to dinner with the celebrity in our group, Ed Welch and his wife Jane.  In the 1970’s Ed recorded with a famous American folk singer Tom Paxton and then performed with Spike Milligan on his Q series of TV programmes.  He’s also written a large number of theme tunes and sound tracks for TV programmes including ‘One Foot in the Grave’ & ‘Thomas the Tank Engine,, a fascinating and very modest guy.     

This is the end of what has been a really great if tiring trip and we head home tomorrow.

26th October San Francisco – free day

26^th October San Francisco – free day

Today we took a cable car to the Ferry Building & boarded the 11.30am ferry to Sausalito.  It was fun riding around on these historic vehicles which date from the 1870’s, you can hope on and off as much as you like.  We bought a 3 day travel pass for $21 and made full use of it.  Drivers are known as ‘gripmaps’, no idea why!

Sausalito is just over the Golden Gate Bridge and you can either drive there or take the ferry, which takes about 25 minutes.  There are some nice restaurants, cafes, shops and art studios and a picturesque waterfront, its well worth a visit.

When we got back to the Ferry Building we walked around the Marketplace where we had lunch at a wine bar.  The Marketplace has shops selling all sorts of artisan products from soup to soap! A nice place to wander.

After lunch we took the trolley bus along the Bay Side.  The trolleys are mainly old vintage vehicles that have been brought in from other US citys after they had dispensed with them.  In the evening we had our last supper as a group with Doug & his disciples!  Much hugging and kissing as we said our goodbyes with all but 3 couples flying home the next day.

 

Sausalito